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Kibbutz:
plural Kibbutzim, Hebrew Qibbutz ("gathering,"
or "collective"), Israeli collective settlement,
usually agricultural and often also industrial, in which
all wealth is held in common. Profits are reinvested in
the settlement after members have been provided with food,
clothing, and shelter and with social and medical services.
(Encyclopedia Britannica)
4am.
Another day dawns across the Negev Desert, a hint of cool
mist lingering in the air that will inevitably give way
to another scorcher. Two weeks ago, I would have been
considering switching off the Playstation and going to
bed at 4am. Now, it's when I go to work
Like
most Kibbutzim, Ein Hashelosha is miles from anywhere
and hosts a diverse range of moneymaking ventures designed
to support the microcosm of life that exists here. Fields
are abundant with watermelons, potatoes, lemons and corn
while the factory turns out cardboard boxes and the turkey
farm provides enough meat for a small but very hungry
country. However, my job is not to burn in the pastures
or wade knee deep in turkey excrement but rather to maintain
the windows, paintwork and doorknobs of our small community.
Welcome to life as a kibbutznik.
The
day begins with no breakfast or morning paper but by cracking
straight into today's list of assignments. My boss is
a jovial English guy named Tony who came to Israel seeking
his Jewish heritage as a young lad, married a rather fetching
Israeli girl and never looked back. A mechanic by trade,
he now has three children and has lived and worked on
the kibbutz for the past 20 years. Over the roar of his
quad bike he reels off the early morning duties that involve
installing plumbing systems, painting front doors and
digging rather large holes with rather inadequate shovels.
"You'll lose a few pounds before breakfast today
mate!" he yells with a grin. I look down at my rapidly
diminishing waistline and just hope I make it through
to my toast and cereal at 7am in the dining hall.
Eating,
like most things on the kibbutz, is very much a group
activity. The community is home to about 500 kibbutzniks,
30 volunteers and 12 South Koreans who are here, improbably
enough, to learn English. The majority of residents are
descendants of South American Jews who came over from
Argentina, Uruguay and Colombia and founded Ein Hashelosha
in 1951. The kibbutzniks have little contact with the
outside world, the occasional shopping trip or visit to
hospital the only reason to leave the base, and that's
the way they like it. Despite the proximity of the kibbutz
to the Gaza Strip it's hard to believe this peaceful community
exists in one of the most war-torn regions on the planet.
After dumping our plates and comparing bumps and bruises
with the field workers I trudge out into the oppressive
heat and head back to the house where Tony is preparing
to crawl under the foundations and repair a burst water
pipe. "Give me a shout if you see any snakes"
shouts Tony as I pass him the wrench. "Will do",
I yell back as I thank the stars that it's him and not
me slithering through the mud and stagnant water.
The
working day ends at 12 Noon, at which time we reassemble
in the dining hall for lunch. Kibbutz food tends to be
edible and sustaining but little like the home comforts
most of us were previously accustomed to, hence the trimming
of many an excess pound from the volunteers midriffs.
After lunch I head for a few hours kip and prepare myself
for the most important part of the day, my meeting with
the Mafia. Not a group of balding, overweight Italian-Americans
but the small bar built inside a bomb shelter on the edge
of the kibbutz which provides the focal point for the
fun-loving volunteers who are, lest we forget, supposed
to be on holiday! The volunteers hail from all over the
world, with about half from South America and the bulk
of the remainder from the UK. All are fond of a few evening
snifters to ease the pain of a hard day's labour and the
younger kibbutzniks usually join in. Working on a kibbutz
is certainly hard graft, the only rest day being Shabbat
(Saturday), the Jewish Sabbath. Then again, there are
benefits, such as organized trips around the country which
allow us access to places we may never have seen independently
such as The Golan Heights, Nazareth and the Israel-Lebanon
border in the north of the country.
Drinking
on the kibbutz is a messy business. Removed from the pseudo-civilized
haunts of student unions and traffic light discos, the
weary workers quickly get tucked in to their cheap vodka
mixers and the inevitable madness begins. Life stories
are told, guitars appear and the challenges to manhood
(and womanhood) are thrown down. Typical escapades include
jumping from the dining hall roof into the kids' sandpit,
downing towering measures of generic booze and the Formula
1 Mower Racing Challenge. Needless to say, the salty old
kibbutzniks frown on such antics but have grown used to
the high-jinx of volunteers after many years of welcoming
them into their fields and factories. By 11pm all is quiet,
save for a little bed-hopping, and the partygoers turn
their thoughts towards tomorrow's labours. And hangovers
And
so it went on for the next 2 months, work-sleep-drink-sleep,
every day a new challenge, every night a new friend, conquest
or cool scar. Kibbutzing is intense but the work hard,
play hard ethic quickly takes hold and most find the experience
rewarding, memorable and certainly character building.
Dos
and Don'ts:
DO
your homework. Kibbutzim have different climates, varying
proximity to local towns and specialize in different industries.
DO
bring high-factor sunscreen. Temperatures of 40 and above
are not uncommon in high summer.
DO
bring enough cash to buy luxuries and get yourself back
to the airport. You do get paid but only the teetotal
tend to leave a kibbutz with anything like a profit. Most
kibbutzim operate on a credit system for drinks and shopping
which leaves many in debt by the time they come to leave.
DON'T
expect a free ride. Kibbutz work is strenuous and those
not pulling their weight will be told to shape up or leave
on the next bus.
DON'T
sign up if you can't finish your contract. Most kibbutzim
have at least an 8-week hitch and frown on those who choose
to leave early. Skipping off during the night is an option
but only if you can walk to the nearest town or main bus
route. If you go early you'll be expected to pay back
the costs of any trips or activities the kibbutz have
provided.
Further
Information
www.kibbutz.org.il
- All you could want to know about life on a Kibbutz and
how to get there.
www.israel-embassy.co.uk
- The Official Site of the Israeli Embassy in London.
www.mishkei.org.il/english/ekibutz.htm
- Map of Kibbutzim across Israel.
UK
Kibbutz recruitment:
Kibbutz
Reps
1A Accommodation Rd
London NW11 8ED
TEL: 0208 458 9235
About
the Author
Jonathan Adams is a travel & culture freelance journalist
from Edinburgh who has lived and worked in Korea, Canada
and Israel.
His
work can be viewed at www.deiz.co.uk
and you can reach him via jonathan@deiz.co.uk
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